I started by creating a pattern for the cups by draping (using black and white checked fabric for simplicity). Though my instruction manuals (primarily this book) show only one dart, my bra cups have enough of a curve to require two. Joy.
Once I got the darts figured out to the best of my ability, I created a paper pattern, cleaned it up, added seam allowance, and started chopping fabric.
Squashed bra cups make for fascinating shapes.
Next I strengthened the cups. I used 7/8" grosgrain ribbon along the top curve and English coutil (left over from aforementioned corsetry forays) to interline the cups themselves. That was fun. Despite a heavy-duty leather thimble, my fingertips may never recover.
At this point, I made an important strategic decision and switched over from a soundtrack of Arabic and Turkish belly dance music to the Hobbit and Lord of the Rings movies. Because, when you're trying to conquer charmeuse, nothing helps like background epic heroism.
Getting the darts to lie properly (and be pinned in place) took FOREVER. But I got there.
Looks very Frankenstein, hm?
Luckily, my hand stitching is slightly better than my pinning, but only slightly.
Told you, only slightly.
Generally, it took much longer than I anticipated to get these finished up. I hope the next parts will go quicker (with the ability to use the sewing machine to construct the band and straps, I'm guessing it will). I'm not very pleased with the way the darts turned out in the satin, but I have to wonder whether the depth of the curve I'm trying to cover (and the fact that I'm juggling two darts) will always mean more obvious seams than I like. Also, theoretically, I'll get better at it?
After Part I of this endeavor, I am moderately confident that I can 1) finish this project by the deadline and 2) produce a bra that won't fall apart when I start dancing in it.
No comments:
Post a Comment